Eldorado Canyon State Park
State Park in Eldorado Springs, CO
Hours:
Park: Daily, sunrise to sunset
Visitor Center: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Entrance Fees:
Daily Vehicle Pass: $10
Individual Daily Pass: $4
Animals Permitted:
- Leashed Dogs
- Service Animals
- Horses
Park Address:
9 Kneale Road
Eldorado Springs, CO 80025
United States
Eldorado Canyon State Park
State Park in Eldorado Springs, CO
Hours:
Park: Daily, sunrise to sunset
Visitor Center: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Entrance Fees:
Daily Vehicle Pass: $10
Individual Daily Pass: $4
Animals Permitted:
- Leashed Dogs
- Service Animals
- Horses
Park Address:
9 Kneale Road
Eldorado Springs, CO 80025
United States
A view of the cliffs and creek
Park Highlight
Explore the Cliffs in Eldorado Canyon
Eldorado Canyon is one of the top climbing destinations in the United States. There are more than 500 technical climbing routes that attract climbers and onlookers from around the world. Eldorado Canyon is noted for multi-pitch, traditionally protected sandstone rock climbs on cliffs up to 700 feet high.
Rock Climbing Facilities
Facilities
Colorado Parks and Wildlife does not maintain fixed anchors or other aspects of climbing routes. The Park makes no representations or warranties regarding the safety, reliability or suitability for use of any fixed anchors or other hardware currently existing or installed in the future. Loose rock, unreliable fixed anchors and other hazards can exist on any route.
Climbers wanting to remove fixed hardware, replace pitons with either pitons or bolts, relocate bolts or pitons, or place new bolts must contact the Park directly at 303-494-3943 to inquire about obtaining a permit.
Routes typically involve intricate and devious face climbing, interspersed with dihedrals and discontinuous, irregular cracks, where traditional removable gear placement skills are mandatory. A standard rack consists of an array of nuts and cams, from small RPs up to about four inch cams, along with a dozen or more quick draws and longer slings.
Action Committee for Eldorado's Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC) advises the Park on applications for new bolt and piton placements by representing views of the local climbing community. The goal is to preserve the character of existing routes while allowing limited development of new fixed-gear routes.
Find a Climbing Route
Eldorado is a traditional climbing area. There are very few sport routes or routes that you can top rope. Fundamental gear placement skills are mandatory.
- Chipping, gluing, manufacturing holds and removal of vegetation is prohibited
- To protect the rock, no drilling or chipping is allowed
- Please use minimal chalk
Golden Cliffs on North Table Mountain
Sport climbing (5.7–5.12) can be found 18 miles south on Highway 93 off First Street in Golden.
Eldorado Canyon
Only a few bolted sport routes can be found in the canyon. Eldorado sport routes start at 5.11.
Golden Cliffs on North Table Mountain
Sport climbing (5.7–5.12) can be found 18 miles south on Highway 93 off First Street in Golden.
Eldorado Canyon
Only a few bolted sport routes can be found in the canyon. Eldorado sport routes start at 5.11.
Supremacy Rock
Supremacy Rock has the most accessible top roping and a few of the routes (5.0–5.5) have bolted anchors. The south side has a 5.11 crack that can be top roped.
Kloof Alcove Routes
(5.11–5.12)
Breakfast of Champions
(5.11) at the lower west side of Redgarden Wall. The lower east side of Redgarden Wall to the right of The Bulge (5.9–5.11)
Over and Out on Rincon Wall (5.6–5. 10)
The first pitch of March of Dimes (Bastille) can also be top roped from fixed anchors.
Brick Wall
A nearby top-rope alternative is the Brick Wall (5.9–5.11), four miles up Boulder Canyon. For more information, consult one of the area's many guidebooks available for sale at the Visitor Center or in local climbing shops.
Supremacy Rock
Supremacy Rock has the most accessible top roping and a few of the routes (5.0–5.5) have bolted anchors. The south side has a 5.11 crack that can be top roped.
Kloof Alcove Routes
(5.11–5.12)
Breakfast of Champions
(5.11) at the lower west side of Redgarden Wall. The lower east side of Redgarden Wall to the right of The Bulge (5.9–5.11)
Over and Out on Rincon Wall (5.6–5. 10)
The first pitch of March of Dimes (Bastille) can also be top roped from fixed anchors.
Brick Wall
A nearby top-rope alternative is the Brick Wall (5.9–5.11), four miles up Boulder Canyon. For more information, consult one of the area's many guidebooks available for sale at the Visitor Center or in local climbing shops.
Know Before You Go
Safety
Substantial risk of serious injury or death exists. Risks include, but are not limited to, falling, falling rock and other objects, equipment failure, human error, adverse weather, slippery surfaces and negligence of other users. In case of serious injury, call 911 and report the incident to Park staff at the entrance station or Visitor Center at 303-494-3943.
Closures
Be aware of and abide by all posted seasonal raptor closures.
Terrain and Weather
- The roaring creek and high winds can make communication difficult.
- The sun sets sooner than you think. Allow adequate time for your climb and descent. Bring a headlamp, extra clothes, etc.
- The weather can change in an instant. Severe thunderstorms, high winds, freezing temperatures and snowstorms can sweep in without notice.
- Beware of loose rock. Avoid standing or climbing beneath others. Check your holds. Warn others if you dislodge rocks.
- Always inform someone of your climbing plans.
- Be aware of possible rapid weather changes including high winds, spring snow storms and summer thunderstorms.
Climbing with Pets
Pets must be leashed and under control at all times everywhere in the park, including along access to climbing areas and at climbing staging areas. Pets can’t be left leashed and unattended at the base of climbs. If one climber is belaying from the ground with a leashed dog nearby, the dog may be considered under control. If both climbers have left the ground or immediate area, the dog will not be considered under control. Pets can’t be left unattended in vehicles.
Equipment
- Never have only one piece of protection between you and a catastrophic fall.
- A helmet can save your life.
- Fixed gear may be unreliable. Use fixed gear at your own risk and back it up when possible.
- Serious falls have occurred while top-roping or lowering a climber when the free end of the rope pulled through the belay device. Always have someone tied in to each end of the rope, or tie a knot in the free end of the rope.
- Always double check yourself and your partner (harness buckle double-backed, tie-in knot, belay rigging and technique and rappel setup).
- Always formulate a plan of action that everyone in the climbing party understands. For example, after leading a pitch, will the leader lower, rappel or belay from above?
- Don’t rappel off the ends of your rope. Always make sure the ends are even with knots tied at each end.
- Get professional instruction.
Get Involved
You can help protect Eldorado by volunteering for trail maintenance and resource reclamation projects. Call the park office for more information at 303-494-3943 on these types of projects.
Become a Guide
Eldorado Canyon approves up to 15 rock climbing guiding permits each year to professional companies and organizations across the county. If you are interested in a permit, please contact the park at 303-494-3943.
Action Committee for Eldorado
The Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE) is a non-profit committed to protecting Eldorado Canyon State Park and promoting environmentally responsible climbing with the help of climbers and volunteers. If you would like to be involved, please email them.
Email ACE